Graphical Method and its advantages and disadvantages

The complete patterns for 1 pair is laid out in the foremost compact and economical arrangement onto a graph paper.
A rectangle is then draw around the patterns that encloses the set.
Sometimes, the line cut across the patterns to a degree as in the example. 

Read more: Systems of material allowance calculation and Discussion about Marking Up Method 

The Percentage can typically vary according to -

1. Material type 
2. Material quality 
3. Average pattern area in regarded to average material space.
4. Variation in size and width fitting.

Advantages:

• Reasonably quick and easy to use.
• Permanent record of calculation method.

Standard cutting time for Upper/Lining Leather/synthetics

The time required for cutting set of upper or lining leather/ synthetic considering various factors, is termed as standard cutting time for upper/ lining leather/synthetics. 

1. Size of the Leather allowance
2. Leather Cut-ability allowance
3. Shading allowance 
4. Double cut allowance
5. Small batch allowance
6. Sorting of Scrap allowance 

therefore, standard leather cutting time is the summation of the above six factors with the basic time.

Standard Cutting time= Basic time + Size of leather allowance + Leather Cut-ability allowance + Shading allowance + Double cut allowance + Small batch allowance + Sorting of scrap allowance + 17% fatigue and contingency allowance.

• The standard time includes 17% allowance for fatigue and contingency.
• Contingency time is the time required for clearing/ oiling the machine, discussing with supervisors, receive wages etc.
• Cutting standard times for both upper and lining leather are calculated for each new or corrected model.

Read more: What is Material Allowance and its objectives