Systems of material allowance calculation and Discussion about Marking Up Method

Clicker Allowance: The consumption allowance relating to a batch for a clicker to cut upper or lining material is called clicker allowance.
Systems of material allowance calculation:

1. Marking Up Method
2. Graphical Method
3. Russ and Small Method (RSM)
4. Scientific Leather Measurement ( SLM)
5. SATRA Summ Method

Let's briefly discuss about these methods-
 Marking Up Method:

•  The cutter supervisor select a leather from a lot that is to be used for the style.
• The area of the leather is measured by using Grid box, Planemeter or machine.
• The Leather is then marked by drawing the templates onto its surface with due regard to cutting principles and quality requirements.
• Complete pairs are drawn as far as possible and an allowance is calculated by dividing the area of the leather by the number of pairs obtained from the mark-up.
• Sometimes the leather is marked on the reverse side so that it can be subsequently used without having to clean off the marks from the surface.

Read more: Graphical Method of Material allowance calculation

Advantages of Marking Up Method:

1.  There's a permanent record of cutting technique used and therefore the quality standard.
2. Takes into consideration cutting principles and ineluctable waste.

Disadvantages of Marking Up Method:

1. A skilled trust worthy clicker is required to do the mark-up.
2. It can be time consuming particularly if there are many pieces in the shoe upper or lining.
3. It may not truely emulate cutting  practice( a clicker would probably cut more vamps or more quarters from an individual leather grinding than cut a complete number of pairs.

Read more: Scientific Leather Measurement ( SLM)

                                SATRA Summ Method