It established quite clearly 2 separate components for allowance calculation i.e., pattern assessment and leather.
Each pattern within the shoe set is measured separately. The pattern is drawn fastidiously onto paper, then "blocked off" by drawing straight pattern perimeter. The area is measured and it's the gross area. Then the foremost economical interlocks unit area are chosen and drawn into position. The interlocking pattern should be kept unbroken parallel or at 180° to the first. The area of interlocks falling inside the gross area are measured and any shared waste. This area is deducted from the gross area and named as slim area.
Is is used as a basis for allowance calculation.
All area measurement created by a planimeter (integrator). Percentage addition created to the slim areas according to:
- Number of pattern items within the shoe set.
- The quantitative relation of slim areas to average skin size area.
- Degree of trim of skin.
The total slim area represents the realm of leather required to chop all the upper components for a shoe. This can be exaggerated by a percentage allowance based on variety of material.
- For upper leather - 10 percentage of total slim area.
- For lining leather - 7% of overall slim area.
This figure is doubled to seek out the allowance for one pair of model size upper assuming a leather coefficient of 1. Then supplemental allowance for leather coefficient. Additional percentage are added to allowance for various shoe sizes and fittings.
SLM is a terribly successful system and wide adopted throughout shoe industry worldwide.
It has been adapted and modified by individual firms to suit their special needs. The system is typically accompanied by a leather bonus payment for cutters.
Advantages of SLM method:
- The leather assessment components of the system is mostly recognized as being the foremost accurate of all systems.
- Because of this, SLM most likely yields the foremost correct allowance calculation system available at this time.
- It has wide application potentialities covering most styles and materials.
- Time overwhelming patterns assessment system.
- this system does not take into thought adequately pattern or skin shape.
- Skilled pattern and leather assessors required for this system.
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