Stitch,Sewing and Seam and Types of seam

Stitch: Unit of sewing operation, Applied for one component used for decorative sewing, we call Deco-stitch. In short stitch is the loop of thread.

Stitch can be two types - 1. Lock stitch( Having two threads) and 2. Chain stitch( Having single thread)

Sewing: Sewing is the formation of stitches in  a section of material using a continuous thread. It is the result of  stitching.

Purpose of sewing- 

• Joining
• Reinforcing
•  Decorating

Seam: The successive linear formation of stitches is called seam. Any line of upper stitching that join two or more components together.

Types of Seam:

Seam can be different types such as follows as bellow-

1. Closed seam: Facing together two sections and stitching approximately 1.5mm distance from the edge. That means the seam allowance is 1.5 mm. It is mostly used in Back Seam of Court, Oxford, Derby shoes.

N.B: Brooklyn or French seam is the  variation of closed seam

2. Open seam: It is Reverse of closed seam and allowance is 2 mm. In this operation the two sections are placed together flesh to flesh and stitched.

 

3. Lapped seam: The most common seam used in upper. In this seam, Underlay allowance is 7 mm and 5 mm skived allowance. The skive is used in this seam is tapper skive.

4. Blind seam: 

5. Piping or welt seam: Decorative and strong seam .

6. Moccasin seam: Three types of basic moccasin seam.

*Classic moccasin seam: Vamp and apron are skived at 45 degree angle. In this seam, the both edges are colored and stitch no. is 10.

*Bordo seam: This is an elegant and stronger seam. It creates the effect of a U bond edge.

*Grain of rice seam: The apron edge is folded and vamp edge is raw.

The ten(10) golden rules of closing

These rules should be followed by every operator who is involve with closing.Because if operator follow these rules, He/She can make product effectively, in short time.

1.  make sure operators are aware of the quality standards required.
2. Re-cut rather than repair.
3. Do not expect the final examiner to cut ends and count upper.
4. Always carry out preliminary closing trials to produce sample footwear, once a style is established avoid making unnecessary minor change.
5. Non-stitching operations are just as important as the actual sewing.
6. Consult suppliers at the design and the sample stage.
7. Cover all stitch marking: It may not be removable later.
8. Stitch through all reinforcements if at all possible.
9. Liaison with designer and pattern cutters is essential.
10. Maintain proper sequence of operation(SOO) and standard operation procedure(SOP).