Leather, Pelt definition and Parts of Leather according to quality

What is Leather?

Ans: Any kinds of tanned hides/ skins are called Leather. 

What is Pelt?
Ans: When hides and skins have been unhaired, fleshed and split they are in a swollen and plumped condition and are full of lime. The limed hides or skins are called pelt.

Parts of Leather according to quality

Generally, A leather has five  parts. they are-

1. 

   Parts of leather

   Butt
2. Shoulder
3. Neck
4. Belly
5. Shank

Butt/Bend: Best quality area of the leather because of it compact fibre structure. 40-50 percent of the total area of the leather is covered by Butt. This portion is used in those component which need more strength such as Vamp, Quarter in footwear.

Shoulder: This portion also strong but less than Butt. About 12-15 percent of the total area of the leather is the shoulder area.

Neck: Less compact than Butt and shoulder, that's why less strength. About 8-10 percent of the total area of the leather is the shoulder area.

Shanks/Flanks: About  5-8 percent of the total area of the skin.

Belly: About 15-17 percent of the total area of the leather.
*There is also a small part called offal which has no use.

 Production process of quality leather/ tanning operations or process 

In tanneries, Raw materials go through different chemical and mechanical operations and finally come out as finished leathers. These tannery operations are divided into three sections.

1. Pre - tanning operation( Beam house operation): 

In the pre - tanning operations, the unwanted proteins and other unwanted materials present in hides and skins are partly or fully removed. Soaking, unhairing, liming, deliming, bating, pickling etc..
2. Tanning operations: 

The main object of tanning operations is to convert putrescible pelt to non - putrescible leather. Vegetable tanning, Chrome tanning, Aldehyde tanning etc..

3. Post - tanning operations: 

The physical properties like flexibility, softness, strength, resiliency etc. and the attractive look of the leathers are improved to a great extent during the last operations known as post - tanning operations. Neutralization, dyeing, fat - liquoring, finishing etc..